The Menswear Report: Faux Fur
FALL 2012’S BIGGEST RUNWAY TRENDS
#1: Faux Trot
Making fur relevant for menswear is a tricky task to say the least. Beyond the occasional sable trim on a pair of black leather gloves, we men aren’t too keen on clothing that spent its past life wandering large tracts of Artic Russia. Fur after all is everything a dapper dude isn’t–feminine, bourgeois, vulgar. Fur is Cruella deville with Pongo by the nuts, the hirsute intersection of mobster’s wife and 70’s pimp, the very antithesis of the clean, lean and mean male specimen.
The fall menswear collections that just showed in Paris and Milan tell a different story though. Fur, both faux and real, has popped up on runways all over town, covering scarves and bomber jackets, chubby great coats and presumptuous peak lapels. In the hands of some, the effect was surprisingly subdued. Veronique Nichanian cut gray astrakhan into a fittingly luxe overcoat at Hermes while Raf Simmons produced fur peacoats in alluring shades of midnight and chocolate for his eponymous label. Other designers went for a more maximalist approach. Neon shades predominated at Versace in Milan and John Richmond lined some smashing parkas in coyote fur–very Buffalo Bill in the urban jungle.
However great these pieces looked on the runway, my suspicion is that the limiting factors of a down market and fur-phobia on the part of your everyday man will keep most of these pieces on limited production. One exception might be a fabulous shaved mink zip up vest by Marni. Quiet, touchable luxury of that sort makes fur not only wearable, but modern as well.
Top to bottom: Raf Simmons, Versace, Marni, Hermes, Alexander McQueen, John Richmond, Topman
Images via Style.com and Topman.com
-Thomas Dai 14′