FUP| First-Year Urban Program

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work that city: north end previous|next home | back bay | beacon hill | boston common | chinatown | downtown boston | fenway | north end | roxbury | south end | south boston | cambridge | other places The North End is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Boston because it is one of the few parts of the city which was actually inhabitable on the original Shawmut Peninsula. It was technically an island for much of its early history because the settlers enlarged the Mill Stream enough to make the North End entirely separate from the South. That stream ran approximately the same course as Blackstone St., which was filled in over it in 1834. So for two centuries the North End maintained a degree of cultural autonomy and isolation. Today, the expressway serves the same purpose as the old stream - it physically cuts the North End from the rest of the city, thus preserving its individual character. However, once the Big Dig project is completed and the expressway dismantled, the North End will no longer have the luxury of geographic isolation to preserve its unique character. The character of the neighborhood is heavily old-world Italian. The majority of the residents are Italian (of some generation) and Italian is spoken by many people (relatively speaking). The narrow, twisty streets also lend the neighborhood an old-world feel. They are lined with restaurants and cafes and are often adorned from above with laundry hanging out to dry. The Haymarket is another aspect reminscent of Europe. Technically, it is not in the North End. It lies just through the underpass walkway next to Quincy Market in Blackstone St. (the underpass is actually the same crossing made by one of two bridges that used to arch the Mill Stream). The Haymarket is an open-air market that takes place on Saturday mornings. The main ware is mountains of fruit and vegetables sold in bulk at real low prices. There are also some meat stores ("order your fresh killed goat, whole or half") and fish stands with fresh crabs and other goodies from the sea. This might be a good point to mention that there is much less cod now than there once was - it used to be one of the driving forces in the Massachusetts economy. The haymarket is a must-see, awe-inspiring, elbowing and shoving good time. Sites in the North End: -Mike's Pastries (Hanover St.): Best cannolis in the Western hemisphere. -Paul Revere Mall (Hanover St): Once again, gonna have to harp on the old world flava. This public square is known locally as the Prado. The flagstone paving , the central fountain, the many benches, and the almost-staged appearance of some of the people sitting on them make this place feel like a postcard. Also be sure to check out the plaques honoring North Enders of historical importance. -Christ Church (aka the Old North Church): Built in 1723, this was the second Anglican parish in Boston. It was actually the fourth church built in the North End, but the rest fell victim to time and Christ Church is now the Old North. Check out the steeple here; it should remind you of one a little closer to home. The steeple is supposedly the church where Robert Newman hung two lanterns for Revere to see (one if by land, two if by sea). However, we do not know for sure if it was this steeple or one of the other three that stood at the time. It is also supposedly the belfry from which General Gage watched the battle of Bunker Hill. Most importantly, perhaps, according to the plaque in the small garden just north of here, this is the steeple from which John Childs "flew" in 1757 on three occasions, firing a pistol in the air on one of them! (no one really knows what this means). -While in the North End, you might want to talk about the recent Roman Catholic church closings in the city. The Archdiocese, blaming a lack of funding, has called for the closing of 12 churches, many of which serve congregations that are primarily low-income and people of color. One such church is Sacred Heart, which we pass by on the tour - it closed its doors on August 29. Another church in danger of closing is St. Mary's, a former FUP site beloved by the diverse community it has long served. North End Links -Fieri Association -Mike's Pastry -Freedom Trail Sites -The Old North Church previous|next

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